HOW DOES IT WORK?  | 
          
          
            1956 - 1978 Non-Integral   Saginaw-style Steering Box  | 
          
          
            A basic working description of   the Ford recirculating ball style steering box with attention to the critical   adjustments and the common problem areas. The information below pertains   specifically to an early Mustang/Falcon/Fairlane steering box, but other models   are similar in operation.  | 
          
          
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            Input Shaft/Worm Gear  | 
          
          
            | The top end of the Input Shaft is splined,   either to mount directly to the steering wheel, or to connect to a coupler from   the steering wheel. The bottom end of the Input Shaft is machined into the shape   of a Worm Gear. | 
          
          
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             SPLINED END             WORM GEAR END  | 
          
          
            On both ends of the Worm Gear   section are areas where caged ball bearings ride. The shaft itself acts as the   inner race for these ball bearings. There is an outer race for one of these ball   bearings located inside the steering box Housing, and another race sets inside   the Adjusting Nut. It is these two ball bearings that locate and hold the Input   Shaft in place and the shaft rotates in them.  | 
          
          
            
              
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                ADJUSTMENT NUT 
                  with 
                BEARING   RACE  | 
                INPUT SHAFT 
                  with 
                UPPER &   LOWER BEARINGS  | 
                LOWER BEARING   RACE 
                  in 
                HOUSING  | 
               
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            Rack Block  | 
          
          
            
              
                | The Rack Block is machined in two different   ways and serves two purposes. The inside of the Rack Block is machined in a   screw-shaped design, just like the Worm Gear. The individual ball bearings roll   inside the Rack Block just like on the Worm Gear. | 
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                The outside of the Rack Block   has four straight teeth machined into it. These teeth mesh with the four teeth   on the top end of the Sector Shaft.  | 
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            The Worm Gear goes inside the   Rack Block and the individual ball bearings fill the grooves cut into both   gears. The Rack Block has Ball Guides mounted on it that allow the balls to roll   from one end to the other of the grooves cut into the Worm Gear and Rack Block.   It is this recirculation of the ball bearings inside the Rack that gives the   steering box it's recirculating-ball designation.  | 
          
          
            
              
                INPUT SHAFT 
                  and 
                RACK   BLOCK  | 
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                  RACK BLOCK 
                    SHOWING 
                    BALL   GUIDES 
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            As the Steering Shaft is   turned, the Worm Gear is turned. The screw-action of the Worm Gear causes the   Rack Block to move up and down the length of the Worm Gear. The recirculation   ball action inside this setup acts to make the movement smooth and as   friction-free as possible.  | 
          
          
            SECTOR SHAFT  | 
          
          
            The top end of the Sector   Shaft has five vertical teeth machined on it. The bottom end is splined and   threaded to hold the Pitman Arm in place and for the nut and washer that secure   the Pitman Arm to the shaft. The steering box Housing has (in most cases) two   needle bearings mounted inside it for the Sector Shaft to turn in. Some early   60's boxes use bronze bushings instead of needle bearings, but their function is   the same. The Sector Shaft sets down in these needle bearings and serves as the   inner race for them. The teeth on the top of the Sector Shaft mesh with the   external teeth of the Rack Block.  | 
          
          
            
              
                SECTOR SHAFT 
                TEETH  | 
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                      SECTOR TEETH 
                        MESHED WITH 
                        RACK   BLOCK 
                     
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                PITMAN 
                  ARM 
                SPLINES  | 
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            BASIC OPERATION  | 
          
          
            | When you turn the steering   wheel, you are also turning the Input Shaft and the Worm Gear. Due to the   screw-like design of the Worm Gear, the Rack Block moves up and down on the   Worm. The teeth on the outside of the Rack Block also move up and down in the   box and push or pull on the teeth of the Sector Shaft, causing it to rotate. The   rotation of the Sector Shaft causes the Pitman Arm to move left and right in the   car, moving the steering linkage with it. This movement of the steering linkage   causes the spindles to rotate on the ball joints and turn the wheels and tires.   Simple. | 
          
          
            The design of the Worm Gear   and Rack Block converts the twisting action of the steering wheel into a   forward/rearward reciprocating action in the box. The design of the Rack Block   and Sector Shaft converts the forward/rearward action into a side-to-side   reciprocating action that can then move the steering linkage as it needs to. The   use of the recirculation ball action makes the conversion smoother and easier   that it could be done with gear teeth alone.  | 
          
          
            CRITICAL ADJUSTMENTS  | 
          
          
            There are only two adjustments   when rebuilding a steering box; Input Shaft Bearing Load and Gear Mesh   Load.  | 
          
          
            Input Shaft Bearing   Load  | 
          
          
            The Input Shaft sets in two   caged ball bearings and acts as the inner races of these bearings. The bottom   bearing is mounted in the steering box Housing and is stationary. The top   bearing is located in the Adjustment Nut and is therefore adjustable. Turning   the Adjustment Nut in brings the two bearings closer together and clamps the   Worm section of the Input Shaft between them. The tightness here must be enough   to eliminate any play in the Input Shaft and keep it securely located in the   Housing. However, the tightness must not be so great that the bearings bind or   wear excessively. The proper tightness is determined by measuring the amount of   drag it takes to turn the Input Shaft. This measurement must be taken without   any additional drag from the other components in the box, so the Sector Shaft   must be disconnected from the steering linkage and be removed or adjusted so far   out as to reduce all drag with the teeth of the Rack Block.  | 
          
          
            
              
                ADJUSTING TENSION ON INPUT SHAFT   BEARING  | 
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                CHECKING BEARING LOAD DRAG WITH TORQUE   WRENCH  | 
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            Gear Mesh Load  | 
          
          
            | The teeth of the Rack Block and the teeth of   the Sector Shaft mesh together. The space between the two center teeth on the   Rack Block is machined slightly smaller than the other spaces and contacts the   center tooth of the Sector Shaft more tightly. This design causes the the mesh   of the teeth to tighten at the center of travel, which is where the steering box   is when driving straight down the road. This center tightness is designed into   the box so the box is tighter and the car has less tendancy to wander when going   straight down the road - which is how the car is driven 99% of the time. | 
          
          
            The Gear Mesh is adjusted by   turning the Adjustment Screw in or out of the Top Plate. Screwing the Adjustment   Screw in pushes the Sector Shaft down into the box and forces the teeth to mesh   with those of the Rack Block. Unscrewing the Adjustment Screw raises the Sector   Shaft and unloads the teeth from each other.  | 
          
          
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            | When properly adjusted, the   mesh of the Rack Block teeth and Sector Shaft teeth add little or no additional   drag to the turning of the Input Shaft, except at the center of travel. At   center, the mesh should create an additional drag due to the designed   interference of the gear teeth. Measurement of this additional drag at center is   the Gear Mesh Load. This load must add a certain amount of additional load to   the turning of the Input Shaft over the drag caused by the Bearing Load. This   measurement must be taken with no additional load from the steering linkage or   steering column. Too little Mesh Load and the box will not be tight at center   and the car will wander the road when traveling in a straight line. Too much   Gear Mesh and the teeth will bind, causing accelerated wear and, in some cases,   breakage of the gear teeth and steering box failure. | 
          
          
            Because the Gear Mesh Load is   drag that is measured in addition to the Input Shaft Bearing Load, the   only proper way of adjusting the steering box is to set the Input Shaft Bearing   Load first before attempting to set the Gear Mesh   Load. 
            For directions and   specifications for actually adjusting the Steering Box, go to the Steering Box Adjustment page. | 
          
          
            
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            PROBLEM AREAS  | 
          
          
            | Most problems in the steering box are caused   by either excessive wear or corrosion. | 
          
          
            Excessive Wear  | 
          
          
            As can be expected, the Input   Shaft and Sector Shaft bearings eventually wear and loosen, causing excessive   play in the gear mesh. Sometimes the caged ball bearings even disintegrate,   spreading metal bits throughout the inside of the box. Replacement of the   bearings with new pieces and re-setting the bearing and gear mesh adjustments   will restore these areas to proper operating conditions. The main area to be   concerned with is the wear of the teeth of the Rack Block and Sector Shaft where   they mesh in the center of travel. The extra tightness that is designed into   this area must be present for a rebuild to be possible. If the inside edges of   the two center teeth on the Rack Block, and both tooth faces of the center tooth   of the Sector Shaft, are so worn that they no longer produce a higher gear drag   together, then one piece or both must be replaced to restore the original gear   mesh settings. 
            For pictures and more information on gear tooth wear, go to   the  Can I Rebuild My Own Steering Box?   page.  | 
          
          
            Corrosion  | 
          
          
            Though it doesn't seem likely,   it is fairly easy for water to get inside the steering box. It doesn't take much   water to cause problems because once inside it never leaks out again. If the   engine compartment is steam-cleaned or washed out, water can make its way into   the box, usually through the area where the Input Shaft goes into the Housing.   On steering boxes with long input shafts, there is no seal at all to prevent   this, as you can look down where the shaft goes into the Adjustment Nut and   actually see the upper Input Shaft ball bearings. If you find a steering box in   a salvage yard that has been sitting in the open with no hood, you can bet that   water has gotten inside the box. 
              You would think that a box filled with   grease could never rust, but you would be wrong. Water is a powerful solvent and   will easily wash the heaviest grease off the internal parts of a steeing box and   rust the parts away. Water will particularly settle between gear teeth or inside   of the ball bearings. About a third of all steering box cores sent in for   rebuilding have major internal pieces damaged beyond use due to   corrosion. 
            For pictures and more information on corrosion in the steering   box, go to the Can I Rebuild My Own Steering Box?   page.  |